Travel I
Checking in: Posada Ayana
WORDS: CHLOÉ BRAITHWAITE | IMAGES: JORGES CHAGAS & SUSIE ELBERSE
There’s something about the rugged Uruguayan peninsula where José Ignacio is located. The little fishing village, relatively unknown until recently, has a slower pace of life. In winter, the population is less than 300 permanent residents, according to the most recent census. In summer, however, the population swells. Historically, the town welcomed South American elite – mostly from Argentina – today, anyone in the know, from anywhere, stops by.
But although José Ignacio has been gradually building a reputation as South America’s chicest beach town, it’s still blissfully under-the-radar. The pace of life is unhurried and unharried; Uruguayan rhythms dictate the day. Breakfast is late; lunch later. And at the heart of it all is the sea.
Here, the Atlantic is raw and untamed. Even on calm days, it crashes against the shore. Rhythmic, rolling waves sculpt the sand dunes, and on the breeze, a salty mist carries a sharp brine. For the original José, a fisherman stranded here in the 19th century, it must have felt like the edge of the world, a place shaped by the whims of the wind and the water. It still carries that sense of wild beauty, something that the founders of boutique hotel, Posada Ayana, found irresistible enough to relocate across the globe for.
When Robert and Edda Kofler first visited, they recall finding, in their words, “a magical place”. Soon after, their children joined them. “Life sometimes makes decisions for you,” says Edda. The posada – Spanish for ‘inn’ – was originally intended as a family holiday home, but morphed into a hote; unsurprising, given Robert’s father once owned a hotel in the Austrian city of Bregenz, not far from Lake Constance. Here, so far from home, the Koflers have created a retreat that pays homage to the area’s past while fully embracing its present.
The architecture of the posada reflects the natural environment of José Ignacio, brought to life by Montevideo-based architect Álvaro Pérez. “The guiding sentiment was ‘memories of my vacations in the 60s and 70s on the Côte d’Azur,’” explains Edda, who was also behind the concept and interiors. Using local materials – limestone, natural stone, lapacho wood, concrete and green marble – the design blends nostalgia with modernity. Inside, each space is infused with character, thanks to carefully restored vintage furniture sourced in Uruguay and Argentina. No two rooms are alike, each possessing its own distinctive feel.
Regional craftsmanship is central to Posada Ayana’s identity. “From the start, I was getting in contact with various artisans,” says Edda. Breakfast dishes and coffee cups were handmade by Montevideo brand Alfe, while Marcela Jacob, an Argentine ceramicist living in Uruguay, crafted the dinner plates. Hugo Gonzales, a local wool spinner, produced the hand-dyed woollen bed throws, and Susette Kok, originally from the Netherlands but a Uruguayan resident for more than 20 years, created clay vases and porcelain tea cups. Even the guest beds, tables, sunbeds and lounge furniture were custom-designed by the family and built by nearby carpenters. “It was and remains essential to me that sustainability is not only a word, but the leading concept for all possible instances,” Edda notes.
Above all, Posada Ayana is about fostering a sense of tranquillity and reconnection – “the feeling of being on a vacation, instant relaxation, calm, slowing down and connecting to the stunning nature all around,” Edda says. That’s why the hotel deliberately omits televisions in guest rooms, instead offering a beautifully curated library filled with books in multiple languages. “I wanted to create the opportunity to do something different, read instead of watch, get off the beaten track of the routine of daily life and find what else is out there for you.”
At the heart of the property lies its most unique feature: ‘Skyspace Ta Khut’ by the space and light artist James Turrell, the first freestanding Skyspace in South America. Recognised by the Uruguayan government as a national site of interest, the installation offers an immersive encounter, best viewed at dawn or dusk. “It is a magical experience that takes the visitor on a journey into colours and the perception of human mind, space and time,” explains Edda. “Each person leaves with a unique and individually different sensation.”
But what truly sets Posada Ayana apart is its intimate and smart approach to hospitality. Alongside its attractive art, the hotel offers a deeply personal touch – from attentive staff to thoughtful features in every corner. “We put a lot of ourselves into our posada, and are in all of the details,” says Edda. “This has been very warmly received and felt by all of our guests, and definitely contributes to its uniqueness.” Perhaps that’s why Posada Ayana is a place that visitors want to return to again and again. As one recently put it, “Leave your homes and come live at
Posada Ayana.”
