Just an hour and a half from Rome, this pretty Tuscan harbour delivers Dolce Vita living with fewer crowds than other riviera hotspots. Choose between rooftop haute cuisine (and a pasta dish made with eight varieties of tomato) or beachside seafood platters served straight to your sunlounger
Jutting out enticingly into the Tyrrhenian sea, Monte Argentario is one of Tuscany’s dreamiest seaside spots. The headland is connected to the main by a thin strip of land, and its picturesque harbour, Porto Ercole, has long been a summer bolthole for smart Italians. Approaching by yacht, you’ll see gelato-coloured houses framing the port. Beyond, the hillsides are peppered with citrus trees and wild juniper, set against the silhouettes of three ancient fortresses.
Each summer, Rome’s great and good decamp here for a few weeks of sunshine and spaghetti alla vongole. The season kicks off with Argentario Sailing Week in June, organised by the Yacht Club Santo Stefano and reserved exclusively for vintage and classic yachts.
Naturally, there is no shortage of excellent dining on this charmed peninsula: Tuscan cuisine is inspired by a bountiful supply of fresh seafood. Families who return annually have their old favourites, with giant platters of fritti di mare along the waterside signalling the arrival of summer.
Over the last few years, however, the region has seen something of a glow-up, with organic wineries, a couple of boutique hotels and dynamic young Chefs moving here from Rome, Milan and beyond. Here are two of our favourite spots in Porto Ercole to visit right now.
The Must-Go: Scirocco, La Roqqa
When La Roqqa hotel opened for its first full season last summer, there was much excitement among Portoercolesi old timers. Following an extensive three-year renovation project by Swedish entrepreneur Conni Jonsson, its clean lines and contemporary style filled a gap between sweet coastal B&Bs and the grande dame maximalism of Hotel Il Pellicano.
La Roqqa is undeniably cool, in a way that Italian hotels rarely are. Assouline travel books are artfully strewn across custom-made coffee tables. Arco floor lamps (if you know, you know) curve over bold red chaise lounges. It’s all painted plaster and burnished metal. Outside the reception, a cream Vespa leans nonchalantly, waiting to take hotel guests on Fellini-esque adventures. Across the 55-rooms and various hang-out spaces, the acclaimed Milanese design house Studio Palomba Serafini has nailed the brief: mid-century minimalism with a bold colour palette of Tuscan terracotta.
Up on the rooftop, Scirocco Restaurant has the same immaculate vibes. It’s named after the warm wind, which blows across the Mediterranean from the Sahara desert some 3,000km south and is responsible for these balmy, al-fresco evenings. Start with aperitivo, overlooking the harbour and the little fishing boats bobbing far below. Each of Scirocco’s signature cocktails is inspired by a different Caravaggio painting, a nod to the Renaissance genius who ended his days in Porto Ercole in 1610 (thanks to an injury sustained in a fight in Naples months before, but still).
For dinner, guests can dine à la carte or opt for one of three different tasting menus: Earth, Garden or Sea. Head Chef Francesco Ferretti is all about celebrating the ingredients of this little corner of Tuscany. Born and raised in Italy, he seems to have little interest in the showy, international cuisine you’ll often find in hotel restaurants. As he says, “In the childhood memories of every good cook, there’s a kitchen, a warm stove, a simmering pot and a grandmother”.
Take his Spaghetti Otto Pomodori dish, for example. Tomatoes, eight different varieties of them, all come from an organic community allotment called L’Orto Giusto a few miles away. Since the restaurant opened, Ferretti has been working closely with the social cooperative, from planting all the way to the table. His tomato pasta, though humble in its origins, features a San Marzano jus, burnt cherry tomato gel, yellow datterino cream, dried Camone crumble, fermented green San Marzano and Costoluto tomato water. By the time the swirl of perfectly al dente spaghetti is served, the balance of flavours and umami are in a whole different league.
The Hidden Gem: Isolotto Beach Club
Located just a short sail round the headland from Porto Ercole, or an even shorter stroll through the olive groves, is the private cove of Isolotto Beach Club. While Scirocco is metaphorically and literally elevated, gazing down over the twinkling lights of the town, the beach club is quite the opposite. Here, fresh oysters and ice-cold white wine can be served right to your sunbed and grazed on in a swimsuit, your toes buried in the warm sand. Metres away, the gentle waves lap against rock pools, and further out to sea is the small, uninhabited island which gives its name to the beach bar.
Given its location, the flavours of the so-called Tuscan Archipelago take centre stage here. Prawns, langoustines, shrimp and fresh fish are served either raw or grilled. For something more low-key, club sandwiches, Caprese salads and a daily changing pasta dish are also on the menu. After lunch, cool down with a swim before enjoying a gelato from the kitsch little ice-cream parlour at the top of the hill. Served from silver cloches, the homemade gelato flavours change with the seasons. Meander back up the hill to Porto Ercole, and it’s time to do the whole thing again.
