Store Subscriptions

Travel I

Portofino: Let's Meet at the Mare

WORDS: Phoebe Hunt | Images: Phoebe Hunt and Belmond

Portofino’s newly refurbished Splendido Mare is a lesson in the art of sprezzatura: the laid-back, effortless charm that defines the Italian Riviera.

There are few places which capture the spirit of La Dolce Vita more than Portofino. The charming fishing harbour has been a staple of the summer season on the Italian Riviera for as long as anyone can remember. It’s a haven of film stars and oligarchs, set to colourful shuttered houses and turquoise seas. This status was only reinforced when the ‘Primavera’ yacht races were launched there in 1980. It became a highlight of the yachting calendar, an unmissable event at the start of the Mediterranean regatta season each year, and Portofino continued on its path as one of the glitziest destinations in the Mediterranean.

Behind the designer shops and superyachts, though, there’s a sleepy Ligurian fishing village with a community that goes back generations. This is where Splendido Mare comes in. It’s the easy-going, playful younger sister of The Splendido, which looms impressively on the hill above the harbour. The Mare was for many years a humble guesthouse and inn, run by an elderly retired fisherman called Silvio Gazzolo. Visitors arrived here in horse-drawn carriages, stopping to enjoy delicious hot meals and a comfortable bed. The same family looked after the building for four generations, giving it its current appearance.

The Mare stays true to its roots and is deliberately set apart from the original Splendido, offering a more discreet and casual kind of elegance. It’s still deeply luxurious, of course, and no expense was spared in renovating the 14 guestrooms ahead of the re-opening last May. The choice of furniture pays tribute to the marina’s seafaring history, with details made from the locally sourced, hand-varnished wood traditionally used in the fishing boats. Perhaps one of the most thoughtful touches to the décor are the original Gio Ponti walnut armchairs you’ll find in every room. These chairs are a tasteful nod to both Portofino’s golden era of Hollywood glamour in the 1950s and Italy’s mid-century aesthetic. They’re also a subject of nostalgia in particular for Italian guests, many of whom will have grown up with similar furniture.

In the open-plan reception, you’ll find carefully selected magazines and interiors books strewn on a coffee table. This area feels more like a Mediterranean villa than a luxury hotel, and that’s precisely the point. “Our project echoes the style of a private residence, where contemporary and vintage pieces coexist to create an atmosphere filled with personality,” explains Charlotte de Tonnac, co-founder of Festen Architecture from Paris. “We tried to keep the design of the hotel as faithful as possible to its surroundings: we want guests to feel at home, but also to feel and appreciate the historical spirit of the location.”The sense of feeling “at home” is carried through to the top-notch concierge service, who won’t bat an eyelid at booking you a gozzo boat trip at 11pm for the next morning, or running to the vending machine to buy you a packet of cigarettes during dinner. The front of house team are discreet to the extreme, treating media moguls and famous guests with the same easy charm as regular punters. They pride themselves on knowing everyone’s name, smiling warmly as you head back from the beach or out for dinner.

Some guests wander in and out in flipflops, beach bags laden with towels and wet swimsuits, while others are impeccably dressed in linens and designer sunglasses, their style perfectly suited to relaxing on the Riviera. This seemingly effortless chic is the essence of what Italians refer to as ‘sprezzatura’. Coined in the 16th century, the idea of sprezzatura represents “a certain nonchalance, so as to make whatever one does appear to be without effort and almost without any thought about it.” It’s the Splendido Mare down to a tee.

Of course, for anyone sailing around the Italian coastline, the reopening of this iconic hotel marks not only a comfortable bed on land for the night, but a new dining destination to write home about. May 2021 also saw the opening of DaV Mare restaurant, the hotel joining forces with three Michelin-starred Da Vittorio for a unique culinary offering. Bringing this Italian legend from the hills of Bergamot to the seaside was a bold move, as both places are steeped in legacy. The original and much-loved Da Vittorio has been run by same family for over 55 years, retaining its Michelin stars and continuing to charm guests for generations.

In keeping with the hotel’s laid-back luxury, DaV Mare is all about alfresco dining, with tables spilling out into Portofino’s famous Piazzetta just meters from the sea. It’s open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, so you can just as easily enjoy a coffee in the morning or a sunset aperitivo before returning to your boat for the evening.

Heading up the new venture is Executive Chef Roberto Villa, who worked closely with the Da Vittorio team to bring this concept to a new part of Italy. “The inspiration for this new opening is first and foremost the territory,” Roberto explains, reflecting on the partnership between the two historic businesses. “It’s all about the places we’re near, and in particular local seafood delicacies such as moscardini (baby octopus), scampi, prawns, langoustine. We go to the fish market every morning at 6 or 7, and then again in the afternoon to get different products which have been caught by the day boats. Then the menu for that day will be based on what was caught.”

The tasting menu at DaV Mare is something the chef team are particularly proud of. Seven courses weave their way through elements of the Mediterranean diet, with recipes from Da Vittorio cleverly transported to the seaside. Basil is a common thread, present in the amuse bouche and petit fours and everything in between. A highlight on the menu throughout the summer is pesto risotto with king prawns and a tomato emulsion. Serving pesto with risotto is a highly unorthodox combination, Roberto admits, but it works in this case. The fresh pesto must be added right at the end before serving, to retain its colour and fragrance. This is topped with melting pink prawns from nearby Santa Margherita fish market, where the chef goes at the crack of dawn each morning.

Back from the restaurant and still a stone’s throw from the water, you’ll find the hotel’s brand new cocktail bar. Aperitivo is an essential part of the evening’s proceedings, and the bar is stocked with artisan liqueurs made from local Ligurian ingredients: basil, Genoese roses, lemon verbena, chinotto. The signature cocktails are centered around a ‘0 KM’ approach, each inspired by an aspect of life here in Portofino. Among the most popular are the Splendido Martini, made from basil gin and pine nut-infused vermouth (two key elements of the famous Genovese pesto), and Il Gozzo, made with almond, cognac and pear.

……………………………………………

Splendido Mare Cup

Finally, and perhaps most importantly, the launch of the Splendido Mare puts Portofino firmly back on the map for the serious sailor too. 2021 saw the launch of the Splendido Mare Cup at the first in the new series of The ‘Regate di Primavera.’ It took place from 6th –9th May and was sponsored by Loro Piana, Veuve Clicquot and Banca Passadore. Forty-one years after the original ‘Primavera’ races, the event paid loving homage to the Portofino’s historical regattas, clearing the channel for a new generation of sport and glamour.

Travel I

Portofino: Let's Meet at the Mare

WORDS: Phoebe Hunt | Images: Phoebe Hunt and Belmond

Portofino’s newly refurbished Splendido Mare is a lesson in the art of sprezzatura: the laid-back, effortless charm that defines the Italian Riviera.

There are few places which capture the spirit of La Dolce Vita more than Portofino. The charming fishing harbour has been a staple of the summer season on the Italian Riviera for as long as anyone can remember. It’s a haven of film stars and oligarchs, set to colourful shuttered houses and turquoise seas. This status was only reinforced when the ‘Primavera’ yacht races were launched there in 1980. It became a highlight of the yachting calendar, an unmissable event at the start of the Mediterranean regatta season each year, and Portofino continued on its path as one of the glitziest destinations in the Mediterranean.

Behind the designer shops and superyachts, though, there’s a sleepy Ligurian fishing village with a community that goes back generations. This is where Splendido Mare comes in. It’s the easy-going, playful younger sister of The Splendido, which looms impressively on the hill above the harbour. The Mare was for many years a humble guesthouse and inn, run by an elderly retired fisherman called Silvio Gazzolo. Visitors arrived here in horse-drawn carriages, stopping to enjoy delicious hot meals and a comfortable bed. The same family looked after the building for four generations, giving it its current appearance.

The Mare stays true to its roots and is deliberately set apart from the original Splendido, offering a more discreet and casual kind of elegance. It’s still deeply luxurious, of course, and no expense was spared in renovating the 14 guestrooms ahead of the re-opening last May. The choice of furniture pays tribute to the marina’s seafaring history, with details made from the locally sourced, hand-varnished wood traditionally used in the fishing boats. Perhaps one of the most thoughtful touches to the décor are the original Gio Ponti walnut armchairs you’ll find in every room. These chairs are a tasteful nod to both Portofino’s golden era of Hollywood glamour in the 1950s and Italy’s mid-century aesthetic. They’re also a subject of nostalgia in particular for Italian guests, many of whom will have grown up with similar furniture.

In the open-plan reception, you’ll find carefully selected magazines and interiors books strewn on a coffee table. This area feels more like a Mediterranean villa than a luxury hotel, and that’s precisely the point. “Our project echoes the style of a private residence, where contemporary and vintage pieces coexist to create an atmosphere filled with personality,” explains Charlotte de Tonnac, co-founder of Festen Architecture from Paris. “We tried to keep the design of the hotel as faithful as possible to its surroundings: we want guests to feel at home, but also to feel and appreciate the historical spirit of the location.”The sense of feeling “at home” is carried through to the top-notch concierge service, who won’t bat an eyelid at booking you a gozzo boat trip at 11pm for the next morning, or running to the vending machine to buy you a packet of cigarettes during dinner. The front of house team are discreet to the extreme, treating media moguls and famous guests with the same easy charm as regular punters. They pride themselves on knowing everyone’s name, smiling warmly as you head back from the beach or out for dinner.

Some guests wander in and out in flipflops, beach bags laden with towels and wet swimsuits, while others are impeccably dressed in linens and designer sunglasses, their style perfectly suited to relaxing on the Riviera. This seemingly effortless chic is the essence of what Italians refer to as ‘sprezzatura’. Coined in the 16th century, the idea of sprezzatura represents “a certain nonchalance, so as to make whatever one does appear to be without effort and almost without any thought about it.” It’s the Splendido Mare down to a tee.

Of course, for anyone sailing around the Italian coastline, the reopening of this iconic hotel marks not only a comfortable bed on land for the night, but a new dining destination to write home about. May 2021 also saw the opening of DaV Mare restaurant, the hotel joining forces with three Michelin-starred Da Vittorio for a unique culinary offering. Bringing this Italian legend from the hills of Bergamot to the seaside was a bold move, as both places are steeped in legacy. The original and much-loved Da Vittorio has been run by same family for over 55 years, retaining its Michelin stars and continuing to charm guests for generations.

In keeping with the hotel’s laid-back luxury, DaV Mare is all about alfresco dining, with tables spilling out into Portofino’s famous Piazzetta just meters from the sea. It’s open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, so you can just as easily enjoy a coffee in the morning or a sunset aperitivo before returning to your boat for the evening.

Heading up the new venture is Executive Chef Roberto Villa, who worked closely with the Da Vittorio team to bring this concept to a new part of Italy. “The inspiration for this new opening is first and foremost the territory,” Roberto explains, reflecting on the partnership between the two historic businesses. “It’s all about the places we’re near, and in particular local seafood delicacies such as moscardini (baby octopus), scampi, prawns, langoustine. We go to the fish market every morning at 6 or 7, and then again in the afternoon to get different products which have been caught by the day boats. Then the menu for that day will be based on what was caught.”

The tasting menu at DaV Mare is something the chef team are particularly proud of. Seven courses weave their way through elements of the Mediterranean diet, with recipes from Da Vittorio cleverly transported to the seaside. Basil is a common thread, present in the amuse bouche and petit fours and everything in between. A highlight on the menu throughout the summer is pesto risotto with king prawns and a tomato emulsion. Serving pesto with risotto is a highly unorthodox combination, Roberto admits, but it works in this case. The fresh pesto must be added right at the end before serving, to retain its colour and fragrance. This is topped with melting pink prawns from nearby Santa Margherita fish market, where the chef goes at the crack of dawn each morning.

Back from the restaurant and still a stone’s throw from the water, you’ll find the hotel’s brand new cocktail bar. Aperitivo is an essential part of the evening’s proceedings, and the bar is stocked with artisan liqueurs made from local Ligurian ingredients: basil, Genoese roses, lemon verbena, chinotto. The signature cocktails are centered around a ‘0 KM’ approach, each inspired by an aspect of life here in Portofino. Among the most popular are the Splendido Martini, made from basil gin and pine nut-infused vermouth (two key elements of the famous Genovese pesto), and Il Gozzo, made with almond, cognac and pear.

……………………………………………

Splendido Mare Cup

Finally, and perhaps most importantly, the launch of the Splendido Mare puts Portofino firmly back on the map for the serious sailor too. 2021 saw the launch of the Splendido Mare Cup at the first in the new series of The ‘Regate di Primavera.’ It took place from 6th –9th May and was sponsored by Loro Piana, Veuve Clicquot and Banca Passadore. Forty-one years after the original ‘Primavera’ races, the event paid loving homage to the Portofino’s historical regattas, clearing the channel for a new generation of sport and glamour.

Further Reading

Travel I number 07

The Kamalame Cay

Under the careful watch of the Hew family, an untouched strip of sand in the Bahamas was transformed into Kamalame Cay, a laidback private-island resort

Design I number 07

From Land to Sea

Featuring a contemporary, warm and crafted look by Swedish architects Andreas Martin-Löf Arkitekter, the 34m sailing yacht ZEMI is a fine example of how shore-side designers can adapt to create stunning, boundary-pushing yacht interiors

Environment I number 07

Dominica And The Whales

With a massive decline in the global Sperm whale population caused by a combination of hunting, pollution and climate change, the species is in grave danger. But things are set to change thanks to an ambitious plan by an unlikely ally