Travel I

Sailing Cuba

WORDS: CHLOÉ BRAITHWAITE | IMAGES: JAMES BRADFORD & CHARLY DEROUET

Author, photographer and long-time Cubanophile and specialist Cynthia Carris Alonso describes the island nation as being “in a surreal state, paused in time with classic cars, neoclassical architecture, antiques and other ubiquitous homages to the past. However, if one looks into the soul of Cuba today, one finds a rapidly changing and developing culture of entrepreneurship, bubbling with hope, excitement and opportunity.”

Indeed, Cuba is changing fast, and that’s no more apparent than along the southeast coast, a part of the country that often goes unseen and unexplored by the outside world. This is where buzzy cities and craggy, sandy coves meet the edgy face of the Sierra Maestra mountain range, and where little has changed since the revolution of the 50s. Here, TIDE shares the log notes of Havana-based Maria Romeu, founder of CubaPlus Travel agency and frequent visitor to, and admirer of, these shores.

SANTIAGO DE CUBA

Begin in Cuba’s second largest city, Santiago de Cuba. Founded in the summer of 1515 by Spanish conquistador Diego Velázquez de Cuéllar, it’s older than Havana. It’s full of crumbling façades, red-tiled roofs, slow-swaying palms and that mix of Spanish and Afro-Caribbean influences that is so particular to the Cuban archipelago. In 2021, UNESCO classified Santiago de Cuba as a Creative City of Music, recognising its rich musical heritage. Melodies certainly play an important role here, with tunes constantly flowing through the air in its bustling plazas and intimate bolero bars.

Explore Parque Céspedes, the pretty main square, framed by key landmarks such as the Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción and the Museo de Ambiente Histórico Cubano. The latter was once the residence of Velázquez, when he was Cuba’s first Spanish governor, and is now the oldest house in the country, home to 16th-century artefacts which allow visitors a fascinating step back in time.

Santiago de Cuba – and the nearby Sierra Maestra mountain range – is considered the heart of the Cuban Revolution: many local museums trace pivotal events that took place in the area, such as the Cuartel Moncada, the site of Fidel Castro’s first attack, and Museo de la Lucha Clandestina, all about the urban resistance against the Batista regime.

Not far from that is the Cementerio de Santa Ifigenia, where some of Cuba’s most revered figures rest, including Fidel Castro himself, poet and philosopher José Martí and politician and businessman, Emilio Bacardí. The solemn changing of the guard is performed every 30 minutes in a moving tribute to the island’s history. Just outside the city, the imposing Castillo de San Pedro de la Roca, a 17th-century fortress perched above the Caribbean Sea, offers breathtaking sunset views.

MAREA DEL PORTILLO

With its deep anchorages, Marea del Portillo is a sweet spot to stop. Tucked between the Sierra Maestra mountains and beaches, this tranquil coast is one of Cuba’s best-kept secrets. Calm waters make it an ideal spot for snorkelling, diving and fly-fishing, and horseback riding on the beach is an unforgettable way to take in the rugged scenery. More adventurous travellers can take a tender out to Cayo Blanco, an uninhabited island with powdery sands and clear waters.

CAYO CABEZA DEL ESTE

Another pristine, uninhabited bay not far from Marea del Portillo, Cayo Cabeza del Este is a secluded refuge for those seeking untouched beauty. Located at the eastern entrance of the Gulf of Guacanayabo, you’ll find kaleidoscopic reefs and more opportunities for snorkelling and spearfishing; the surrounding waters teem with sea life, making it a prime spot for anglers in search of snapper, grouper and mahi-mahi.

JARDINES DE LA REINA

A breathtaking marine sanctuary, the Jardines de la Reina – which translates as the Gardens of the Queen, named after Queen Isabella of Spain by Christopher Columbus – stretches over 135 miles off Cuba’s southern coast. This protected underwater park boasts exceptional biodiversity thanks to some of the healthiest coral reefs in the Caribbean. It is renowned as a world-class diving and fly-fishing destination (note: a permit is required), full of silky and reef sharks, goliath groupers, eagle rays and sea turtles, with thriving mangrove forests providing essential nurseries for even more marine life. Freedivers and snorkellers will also find plenty of sites to explore, with shallow coral gardens and schools of vibrant tropical fish just below the glittering surface. A visit to Playa Sirena, one of the area’s most attractive beaches, provides an opportunity to lounge on soft, fine sand. Given the seclusion, at night, stargazing is nothing short of mesmerising.

TRINIDAD

A UNESCO World Heritage Site in its entirety, Trinidad is a town that offers a peek into Cuba’s rich past. Considered a living museum, it blends history and culture via its cobblestone streets, pastel-coloured buildings and grand architecture, with much of it well maintained. It was once the heart of the island’s sugar industry; vestiges of vast fortunes can still be seen in mansions and estates throughout the town. Trinidad is also a go-to place to explore Cuba’s natural environment. Head to Playa Ancón, just a short distance away, for cool waters and golden-hued sands, while the Valle de Los Ingenios – the Valley of the Sugar Mills – is another UNESCO site preserving the ruins of former sugar plantations where you can learn about the legacy of this trade.

CIENFUEGOS

Finally, head north to Cienfuegos. Initially, French immigrants from Bordeaux and New Orleans settled in the city, leaving a lasting mark on its development. You can see the neoclassical style in the façades that line its wide boulevards, which is why UNESCO designated the centre a World Heritage Site in 2005. Known as ‘the pearl of the south’, Cienfuegos thrived as a key trade centre for sugar, mango, tobacco and coffee. Across the bay, the imposing Castillo de Jagua, built in the 18th century, stands guard, with commanding views of the coastline. Nearby, the Guanaroca Lagoon hosts huge flocks of pink flamingos, while outside the city, the El Nicho waterfalls are nestled within the Sierra del Escambray between Trinidad and Cienfuegos. The journey, though perhaps more challenging at times, is worth it for the rivers, caves, falls, canyons, grottos and natural pools surrounded by Cuba’s national flower, the mariposa – or butterfly lily – alongside magnolias, orchids and wild, fragrant jasmine.