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Travel I

West Coast Wilderness

WORDS: GEMMA HARRIS | IMAGES: OLI RILEY

Home to the world’s longest coastline, it is no wonder that Canada boasts abundant diversity within its shores. The west coast, in particular, is full of winding waterways, picture-perfect landscapes and remote, tucked-away secluded corners ready for epic cruising expeditions.

Exploring the rugged North-West Pacific Ocean coastline of British Columbia is the ultimate sailor’s paradise, where nature’s grandeur takes centre stage at every turn with glaciers, soaring mountain peaks, deep fjords and age-old forests. Cruising may be lonely at times, lacking settlements and neighbouring boats, but that is where the magic of getting off the beaten path lies; the incredible array of wildlife keeps cruisers company here. From the open ocean to the fjords and labyrinth of islands with narrow passages and channels to navigate, the waters and land are brimming with life, and it’s possible to spot everything from orcas to humpbacks, dolphins to sea lions, grizzly bears to eagles, to pick out just a few.

A pioneering spirit is required with multiple routes weaving through its vast geography of waters, but the adventure is worth the effort. The south is home to Vancouver Island and its Gulf Islands nestled in the Strait of Georgia, while a tightly packed archipelago of Desolation Sound and the Fiordland Conservancy can be found centrally and heading north into the Inside Passage. Although only a section of Canada’s coastline, there is enough cruising ground here to last a lifetime; you can spend days at a time on each of the many islands, or you can cover the same distance over a couple of weeks, allowing British Columbia to show off its best bits.

Victoria

Whether entering British Columbia by water or seaplane, Victoria is a perfect warm-up. This coastal capital is located at the southern tip of Vancouver Island – a beautiful city fusing English charm with west-coast vibes. Admiring the stately mansions, wandering the gardens and sampling the foodie delights should be your priorities before you fully immerse yourself into the wild west. Victoria International Marina is the gateway for sailors ready to experience a spectacular region.

Vancouver Island & The Gulf Islands

Dotted along Vancouver Island’s eastern shoreline are the Gulf Islands, an accessible sailing ground in the Strait of Georgia that stretches up to Nanaimo. In recognition of its original inhabitants, First Nations people, the area is renowned for its culture, and is often referred to as the ‘Salish Sea.’ Each of the 200 islands comprises a system of marine parks, meandering channels and protected, sheltered anchorages. The sub-Mediterranean climes will keep you snug here, and the serene vistas and wildlife will leave you in awe. The largest and most popular is Saltspring, a great starting point and an ideal place to stock up with organic provisions in an area known for its world-famous vibrant markets that draw people from far and wide. Further north, hugging Vancouver Island’s coastline, is Hornby Island, with the well-earnt nickname ‘Little Hawaii’ thanks to the Tribune Bay Provincial Park and its white sands. Sharing the swimming area here are playful sea lions, who gather to feed on schools of herring. The neighbouring and larger isle, Denman Island, is also worth a stop; hiking and mountain biking trails are plentiful there.

Desolation Sound

A short hop of around 40 miles from the northernmost Gulf Islands will get you to the deep water coves and mountainous backdrops of
the Desolation Sound cruising area. Inaptly named, it is far from desolate and instead full of marine life and pristine landscapes: a Pacific playground complete with safe anchorages and warm waters due to minimal tidal exchange. One perfect launching point and gateway into the Sound’s marine park is the tiny picturesque and historic hamlet of Lund. To the west is Savary Island, which will have you thinking you have taken a diversion into the Caribbean due to the sparkling white beaches. Further into the Sound you’ll discover stunning scenery and protection from all wind directions, as well as the popular anchorage of Prideaux Haven. Meander to West Redonda Island on the western side for Teakerne Arm, a deep inlet showcasing the pièce de résistance: a dramatic waterfall cascading down into Cassel Lake. Go ashore here to the forested uplands, never far from the salmon-filled waters, and there’s a chance you may encounter grizzly bears in their natural remote wilderness. To enjoy the warmest waters in the Sound, head to the protected Pendrell Sound, an ideal spot to indulge in some watersports in-between more animal spotting. Thrill seekers will brave the notorious Yuculta Rapids to depart the Sounds.

Broughton Archipelago

Cruising north, you will continue into more remote realms. Johnstone Strait is a deep and narrow glacier-carved passage – and home to the largest resident pod of orcas – that floods into the Broughton Archipelago’s maze of small islands. British Columbia’s largest marine park is full of undeveloped islands with perfect conditions for sea kayaking. Wildlife takes precedence again here, with river otters, mink and racoons frolicking on the shoreline and black bears a regular sight. Many seabirds also circle here due to the various species of salmon they see below – don’t miss West Cracroft Island for fishing yourself; tackle up for salmon, halibut, ling cod, prawns and crabs. Cormorant Island welcomes visitors to the U’mista Cultural Centre at Alert Bay to delve into the rich indigenous culture and history of the area. Edging northeast into the backroads, zealous voyagers should pay a visit to Drury inlet; it requires a difficult and narrow navigation through rapid currents, but is worth the undertaking.

Fiordland Conservancy

Just when you think you have reached the pinnacle of British Columbia’s beauty, it continues. Head towards Princess Royal Island and navigate through the mystical Fiordland region, taking time to stop over at Goose Island to swim with the charismatic sea otters. The natural hot springs at Eucott Bay can then relax and soothe your muscles. This is also the heart of the Great Bear Rainforest; take time to venture ashore in search of the mystical, rare spirit bear.

As you reach the end of the Canadian coastline, you can go onto further explorations from Prince Rupert, where the next untamed frontier of Alaska awaits. Or, for more of Canada’s charm, the alluring East Atlantic coast provides further superior sailing.

Travel I

West Coast Wilderness

WORDS: GEMMA HARRIS | IMAGES: OLI RILEY

Home to the world’s longest coastline, it is no wonder that Canada boasts abundant diversity within its shores. The west coast, in particular, is full of winding waterways, picture-perfect landscapes and remote, tucked-away secluded corners ready for epic cruising expeditions.

Exploring the rugged North-West Pacific Ocean coastline of British Columbia is the ultimate sailor’s paradise, where nature’s grandeur takes centre stage at every turn with glaciers, soaring mountain peaks, deep fjords and age-old forests. Cruising may be lonely at times, lacking settlements and neighbouring boats, but that is where the magic of getting off the beaten path lies; the incredible array of wildlife keeps cruisers company here. From the open ocean to the fjords and labyrinth of islands with narrow passages and channels to navigate, the waters and land are brimming with life, and it’s possible to spot everything from orcas to humpbacks, dolphins to sea lions, grizzly bears to eagles, to pick out just a few.

A pioneering spirit is required with multiple routes weaving through its vast geography of waters, but the adventure is worth the effort. The south is home to Vancouver Island and its Gulf Islands nestled in the Strait of Georgia, while a tightly packed archipelago of Desolation Sound and the Fiordland Conservancy can be found centrally and heading north into the Inside Passage. Although only a section of Canada’s coastline, there is enough cruising ground here to last a lifetime; you can spend days at a time on each of the many islands, or you can cover the same distance over a couple of weeks, allowing British Columbia to show off its best bits.

Victoria

Whether entering British Columbia by water or seaplane, Victoria is a perfect warm-up. This coastal capital is located at the southern tip of Vancouver Island – a beautiful city fusing English charm with west-coast vibes. Admiring the stately mansions, wandering the gardens and sampling the foodie delights should be your priorities before you fully immerse yourself into the wild west. Victoria International Marina is the gateway for sailors ready to experience a spectacular region.

Vancouver Island & The Gulf Islands

Dotted along Vancouver Island’s eastern shoreline are the Gulf Islands, an accessible sailing ground in the Strait of Georgia that stretches up to Nanaimo. In recognition of its original inhabitants, First Nations people, the area is renowned for its culture, and is often referred to as the ‘Salish Sea.’ Each of the 200 islands comprises a system of marine parks, meandering channels and protected, sheltered anchorages. The sub-Mediterranean climes will keep you snug here, and the serene vistas and wildlife will leave you in awe. The largest and most popular is Saltspring, a great starting point and an ideal place to stock up with organic provisions in an area known for its world-famous vibrant markets that draw people from far and wide. Further north, hugging Vancouver Island’s coastline, is Hornby Island, with the well-earnt nickname ‘Little Hawaii’ thanks to the Tribune Bay Provincial Park and its white sands. Sharing the swimming area here are playful sea lions, who gather to feed on schools of herring. The neighbouring and larger isle, Denman Island, is also worth a stop; hiking and mountain biking trails are plentiful there.

Desolation Sound

A short hop of around 40 miles from the northernmost Gulf Islands will get you to the deep water coves and mountainous backdrops of
the Desolation Sound cruising area. Inaptly named, it is far from desolate and instead full of marine life and pristine landscapes: a Pacific playground complete with safe anchorages and warm waters due to minimal tidal exchange. One perfect launching point and gateway into the Sound’s marine park is the tiny picturesque and historic hamlet of Lund. To the west is Savary Island, which will have you thinking you have taken a diversion into the Caribbean due to the sparkling white beaches. Further into the Sound you’ll discover stunning scenery and protection from all wind directions, as well as the popular anchorage of Prideaux Haven. Meander to West Redonda Island on the western side for Teakerne Arm, a deep inlet showcasing the pièce de résistance: a dramatic waterfall cascading down into Cassel Lake. Go ashore here to the forested uplands, never far from the salmon-filled waters, and there’s a chance you may encounter grizzly bears in their natural remote wilderness. To enjoy the warmest waters in the Sound, head to the protected Pendrell Sound, an ideal spot to indulge in some watersports in-between more animal spotting. Thrill seekers will brave the notorious Yuculta Rapids to depart the Sounds.

Broughton Archipelago

Cruising north, you will continue into more remote realms. Johnstone Strait is a deep and narrow glacier-carved passage – and home to the largest resident pod of orcas – that floods into the Broughton Archipelago’s maze of small islands. British Columbia’s largest marine park is full of undeveloped islands with perfect conditions for sea kayaking. Wildlife takes precedence again here, with river otters, mink and racoons frolicking on the shoreline and black bears a regular sight. Many seabirds also circle here due to the various species of salmon they see below – don’t miss West Cracroft Island for fishing yourself; tackle up for salmon, halibut, ling cod, prawns and crabs. Cormorant Island welcomes visitors to the U’mista Cultural Centre at Alert Bay to delve into the rich indigenous culture and history of the area. Edging northeast into the backroads, zealous voyagers should pay a visit to Drury inlet; it requires a difficult and narrow navigation through rapid currents, but is worth the undertaking.

Fiordland Conservancy

Just when you think you have reached the pinnacle of British Columbia’s beauty, it continues. Head towards Princess Royal Island and navigate through the mystical Fiordland region, taking time to stop over at Goose Island to swim with the charismatic sea otters. The natural hot springs at Eucott Bay can then relax and soothe your muscles. This is also the heart of the Great Bear Rainforest; take time to venture ashore in search of the mystical, rare spirit bear.

As you reach the end of the Canadian coastline, you can go onto further explorations from Prince Rupert, where the next untamed frontier of Alaska awaits. Or, for more of Canada’s charm, the alluring East Atlantic coast provides further superior sailing.

Further Reading

Travel I number 07

The Kamalame Cay

Under the careful watch of the Hew family, an untouched strip of sand in the Bahamas was transformed into Kamalame Cay, a laidback private-island resort

Design I number 07

From Land to Sea

Featuring a contemporary, warm and crafted look by Swedish architects Andreas Martin-Löf Arkitekter, the 34m sailing yacht ZEMI is a fine example of how shore-side designers can adapt to create stunning, boundary-pushing yacht interiors

Environment I number 07

Dominica And The Whales

With a massive decline in the global Sperm whale population caused by a combination of hunting, pollution and climate change, the species is in grave danger. But things are set to change thanks to an ambitious plan by an unlikely ally