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Hidden Gems: Naples & The Amalfi Coast
WORDS: Phoebe Hunt | Images: Natalie Obradovich
The Bay of Naples and its glittering islands need no introduction. Get away from the crowded hotspots with these lesser-known beaches, secret caves and waterside trattorias.
Summers exploring Italy’s Amalfi Coast are a rite of passage for sailors worldwide: languid morning sunbathing on the beach, long lunches of freshly caught shellfish, and balmy sunsets over the Mediterranean Sea are all part of the appeal of L’Estate Infinita: the endless summer. Positano, Ischia, Capri and Sorrento – all a stone’s throw from Naples - have long been the playground for Italy’s well-heeled travellers.
Naturally, though, these places have long since been ‘discovered.’ The Amalfi coast’s pastel clifftop churches and striped beach umbrellas are a thing of magic, but one that you’ll have to share with the rest of the world. Instead, we’re going in search of the tiny secluded coves and simple eateries that only locals know about, many of which can only be discovered by boat. These hidden treasures take us back to the Costa Amalfitano in its heyday, before mass tourism forced the rustic charm out of these ancient fishing villages.
Café Mirante, Praiano
Between Positano and Amalfi, in-the-know travellers swear by Praiano. The ancient fishing village has got all the sun-kissed beauty, whitewashed houses and turquoise waters synonymous with its more famous neighbours, but a fraction of the visitors. Dock at the tiny Marina di Praia, the only harbour in the ancient fishing village, and go for a swim at Gavitella Beach. The free beach is a favourite of local children splashing around in the harbour, and sun-kissed old timers who’ve been coming here for generations.
After a few lazy hours in the sun, follow the steep coastal path uphill for possibly the coolest local bar this side of the Mediterranean: Café Mirante. You’ll find a smooth playlist that transitions seamlessly from mid-afternoon sundowners to late night cocktails, and spectacular views across the glittering shores of Positano and beyond. It’s also one of the only spots on this coast to catch the sunset, with the islands of Li Galli and Capri in the distance.
We love the zesty sgroppino, made from lemon sorbet, vodka and prosecco, and herb-infused basilisco, savoured alongside delicious aperitivo snacks. Naturally, these also a far cry from your average Amalfi Coast beach food too: think fat Amalfi olives, crunchy bruschetta, and the freshest mozzarella from a small farm down the road. Café Mirante is one of the region’s best kept secrets, though perhaps not for long.
Isola la Gaiola, Naples
The water in Naples city center may be murky and uninviting – it’s one of the biggest seaports in the world, after all – but you don’t have to go far to get secluded beaches. Indeed, on the South Western peripheries, you’ll find ghostly Isola la Gaiola and its underwater Roman ruins virtually deserted. It’s difficult to find via land, flanked by gated holiday homes and Parco Virgiliano national park, but by sea you can’t miss the island with its crumbling white villa protruding proud from a peninsular. Far above the cape (Capo di Posillipo) you’ll see faded colourful villas harking back to the city’s heyday, when Naples’ noble families would move out to this part of town.
Many Italians believe the tiny island of Gaiola to be cursed, with strange fates befalling anyone who tried to live there. Don’t let this put you off snorking in its waters, though: the marine-protected underwater park is an off-grid adventure unlike any other on this coastline. Private diving guides will take you around the immaculately preserved Roman ruins, with mosaics and Pagan statues still intact.
La Tonnarella, Conca dei Marini
As with so many of these hidden waterside trattorias, a boat (your own, or a complementary boat shuttle service from the nearby port of Amalfi) is really the only way to arrive at La Tonnarella. You’ll find a pebbly beach that feels miles from anywhere, with a humble pink trattoria sheltering at the foot of the cliff. The seafood shack is homely and rustic, with the plastic chairs and a handwritten menu a refreshing change from the glitz of other Amalfi Coast destinations. It’s not that it’s undiscovered exactly – Princess Margaret once came here, and it was a known favourite of Jackie Kennedy – but that the old-school owners refuse to change one iota. Trust chef Angelo’s recommends of the day, as the menu is based on what’s been caught on the dayboat that morning. After lunch, chug or sail round to Grotta dello Smeraldo, the emerald caves a mile or so around the headline, for a swim in the azure waters.
Procida Island
The smallest island in the Gulf of Naples, Procida is often overlooked in favour of glitzy Capri and family-friendly Ischia. If you prefer rustic charm though, you’ll be rewarded by a rich tapestry of lemon groves and crumbling hamlets, giving way to secluded coves and long tree-lined beaches. Covering just five square kilometres, there’s something truly magical about the island’s barefoot vibe. Things have hardly changed here since Anthony Minghella filmed The Talented Mr Ripley here in the 90’s, and indeed probably for much longer. Dayboats still come in and out, bringing fresh catch to waterside trattorias, old ladies still hang their washing from the windows, and fishermen still sit on street corners smoking and drinking coffee.
Most boats arrive in Marina Grande or picturesque Marina Corricella, a charming medieval fishing port that is unequivocally the island’s most beautiful village. If you’re staying for a few nights, head round to sheltered Marina Chiaiolella and make a reservation at Ristorante da Mariano. It’s a local favourite, and busy every night. Here, islanders serve up unbeatable seafood pasta and refreshing insalata di limoni (lemon salad) – a local speciality made from their own unique variety of lemon. Save room for the signature torta procidana, a gooey lemon and white chocolate cake.
Bagni della Regina Giovanna
In the shadow of Sorrento, this wild and natural swimming and picnic spot has been a well-kept secret for more than two millennia. It’s named after 15th Century Giovanna d’Angio, Queen of the Kingdom of Naples, who allegedly used to escape here to come bathing with her various lovers.
Bagni della Regina Giovanna is impossibly picturesque, framed by a natural archway and sheltered from the waves, and has to be seen to be believed. On the cliffs far above, the ruins of a Roman villa date back to the 1st Century BC. To have a chance of finding this place by land, you’ll have to take a train to Sorrento, a bus and a long, steep walk through olive groves. By water, on the other hand, it’s a piece of cake, which is why the mystical sea cave is fairly quiet even in the height of summer. Trust us, you won’t be disappointed.
