Travel I

French Polynesia

WORDS: JASPER TROJE TUCK | IMAGES: TIM KCKENNA

The islands of French Polynesia are scattered across an area roughly the size of Western Europe, distributed throughout several distinct archipelagos each with their own unique landscapes, ecosystems and cultures. From the wild mountainous islands of the Marquesas, to the sunken atolls of the Tuamotus, this is truly a seafarer’s paradise. Pristine coral reef, abundant marine life, lush green mountains and a proud culture steeped in ancient Polynesian traditions – these islands have so very much to offer. Indeed – with more than 120 different islands and atolls, you could spend years exploring.

The Marquesas

After crossing the vast Pacific Ocean, making landfall in the Marquesas is a moment that most people will never forget. Watching these islands rising from the sea evokes a sense of timelessness, and as you approach it’s striking how untouched they are. The local name for this remote archipelago is Fenua Enata, which translates as ‘land of men’. The Marquesans’ connection to their ancestors is evident everywhere you look. The ancient practices of tattooing, dance and carving serve as living embodiments of their cultural resilience and pride.

This archipelago is unique within French Polynesia as the islands are not protected by a barrier reef, and instead the mountains drop straight into the Pacific’s depths. The waters are not the clear blue you associate with the lagoons and atolls of the rest of Polynesia, but they offer some incredible diving and marine wildlife encounters. The deep anchorages, ever-present ocean swells and strong katabatic winds can present some challenges, but the experiences you find here will more than make up for it.

A logical first stop after crossing the Pacific is Hiva Oa. This is an official Port of Entry and a convenient place to restock the fridges with local fruits and vegetables. Hiva Oa has long been an inspiring place for artists and voyagers, notably the painter Paul Gauguin, who settled here and was buried on the island. The museum in his memory is a must-visit.

Fatu Hiva, just 45 miles to the SSE, is one of the most remote islands in French Polynesia, influenced very little by tourism and the outside world. The stunning Hanavave Bay is one of the most iconic anchorages in the world, surrounded by tall basalt cliffs and other-worldly rock formations. The small village is full of welcoming locals; it’s hard to go for a walk ashore without returning loaded up with local grapefruit and bananas. A short hike into the valley leads you to a waterfall where you can cool off in a large
freshwater pool.

As the island is so remote, it can be difficult for residents to get the supplies they need. It’s always appreciated when visiting yachts bring out essentials such as fishing gear, tools and so on. There are no restaurants, but it’s possible to arrange to eat with families in their homes for a true taste of life in the Marquesas. You will find that almost everything on the table has come from the oceans or the mountains, a selection of freshly caught fish, wild boar and goat, accompanied by fruits, vegetables and coconut milk.

The Tuamotus

After spending time in the mountainous Marquesas, arriving in the atolls of the Tuamotus feels like entering another world. It is one of the most beautiful and untouched tropical paradises on earth. Kitesurfing, diving, fishing, snorkelling – there’s always something to do in the water. With more than 80 low-lying islands covering an area more than 900 square miles, it has been known historically as the Dangerous Archipelago. Careful navigation is essential, from timing your entrance into the narrow reef passes, to picking your way through the lagoon scattered with coral heads and numerous pearl farms. Fresh provisions are hard to come by as very little grows here, so it’s worth stocking the boat before departure from the Marquesas, or pre-arranging a delivery from Tahiti.

Fakarava is one of the largest atolls in the group, with a wide, deep pass that is easy to navigate in most conditions. After entering the main pass in the north, there is a large anchorage off the village of Rotoava. There is also a small airstrip here, making it a convenient place to pick-up and drop-off guests.

Anchoring in Fakarava is strictly monitored, with only a few authorised anchorages. Just under 30 miles south of Rotoava lies the kitesurfer’s paradise of Hirifa. This is a well protected anchorage and an attractive sandy beach ashore. The steady trade winds blowing straight off the reef and into the lagoon create ideal conditions for kiting and foiling.

Venture a few miles further south and you’ll discover the legendary South Pass, locally known as Tumakohua. The combination of nutrient-rich currents flowing through the pass, healthy coral reef and the protected status of Fakarava’s waters creates the right conditions for a wildlife spectacle unlike anywhere else on earth. Tumakohua is home to around 700 resident grey reef sharks, the largest congregation on the planet. Drift diving this pass is an unforgettable experience, and one not to be missed on any South Pacific cruise.

The Windward Islands

Two days sail from Fakarava lies the beating heart of French Polynesia: Tahiti. After spending time in the remote islands, Tahiti is a welcome chance to tie up to a dock and enjoy some days ashore. Large French supermarkets, numerous chandlers and yacht services and plenty of restaurants make Tahiti a great place to prepare for the next stage of your Pacific cruise.

A visit to the small village of Teahupo’o to see surfers taking on one of the heaviest waves in the world is well worth the trip, with local boats able to get you closer than you would think possible. For surfers staying in Marina Taina, the wave at Taapuna is a fast, hollow left-hand reef break, often providing amazing glassy barrels. Tahiti also has some wonderful waterfall hikes.

Mo’orea, lying just 11 miles to the west, offers almost everything the cruising sailor could wish for. This enchanting island captivates visitors with its dramatic landscape: volcanic peaks cloaked in vegetation rising from the turquoise waters of the lagoon. Cooks Bay is one of the most impressive anchorages in the South Pacific, alongside the popular Opunohu Bay. Every year from July until November, a large population of humpback whales migrate from Antarctica to the warm waters of French Polynesia to mate and calve. Mo’orea is one of the few places in the world where it’s possible to enter the water with these incredible animals and witness them in their own environment. Mo’orea is also the home of several coral reef restoration projects, working to support coral resilience in the face of climate change.

With its diverse range of islands and atolls spanning such a vast area, French Polynesia offers adventurous sailors a chance to experience some of our planet’s wildest spaces, as well as to absorb its culture-rich history, and natural magnificence.