Travel I

La Dolce Vita Itinerary

WORDS: CHLOÉ BRAITHWAITE

There is a stretch of the Mediterranean that’s different from everywhere else. The Tyrrhenian Sea is windswept and just as breathtakingly blue, but this particular water, from the Strait of Messin to the Strait of Bonifacio, plays host to a group of pretty islands that are steeped in legend and time.

Begin in Livorno, the northernmost point of the Maremma region extending down to Rome, where vineyards meet the sea, and where la dolce vita vibe is never very far away.

Punta Ala

Punta Ala is a picturesque coastal village that acts as a convenient base for exploring the nearby beaches and coves. The town is tiny, home to just more than 400 people, and sits on a rocky promontory – at the peak of which is the old Forte di Punta Ala, a 16th-century fortress overlooking the sea and the nearby island of Sparviero. This stretch of the Italian coastline is one of the most unspoilt, surrounded by centuries’-old forests of oak and pine, with waters that are home to healthy marine life. By the long stretch of golden sand, you’ll find plenty of secluded bays just waiting to be explored.

Notably, the Marina di Punta Ala has played host to a number of regattas, including the Luna Rossa’s America’s Cup. It’s a vibrant community, attracting sailors from all over the world, making it a wonderful first stop along the Maremma coast line.

Elba

From Punta Ala, head west to the first of the archipelago’s islands: Elba. It is a lush, forested, mountainous place, strewn with history dating all the way back into the Neolithic. The oldest town on the island is the hilltop Marciana, dating back to 35BC. Wandering through her streets, you’ll still see traces of her past in the structures and layout of the town. The atmosphere here is cooler than the coast, making it a breezy alternative on hot days.

The biggest city and capital is Portoferraio, located along the north-eastern coast. When arriving
by sea, you’ll note her old fortifications, built in 1548 to defend the city from pirates. Its most famous resident was Bonaparte (read more on page 56); one of the most popular locations in town is his old home, the Palazzina dei Mulini. Porto Azzurro, another pretty fishing village on Elba’s eastern Gulf of Mola, is located across two ports: Focardo and San Giacomo, the latter remains of a sprawling defensive complex that once protected the town. In calm weather, plenty of coves provide anchorages: to the north is Barbarossa, with a charming centre a short walk away from the main beach, while in the south, you can take your pick: Naregno, Capo Perla, Straccoligno, Ferrato, Calanova or Istia.

Isola del Giglio

Isola del Giglio – Giglio Island – is a quiet, green corner of the archipelago. The tiny isle is only a little more than 24 square kilometres, but even so, there is much to see: the charming village of Giglio Porto is its heart and soul, with an idyllic waterfront promenade. Locals are friendly and the atmosphere is relaxed, making it perfect for lazy mornings, while the ancient hilltop town of Giglio Castello showcases the island’s mediaeval history with its fortified walls and winding alleys. Its four main beaches of Campese, Arenella, Canelle and Caldane offer clear waters that are often a draw for diving enthusiasts, especially those seeking a glimpse of tiny, charming seahorses along the seabed, and granite sea walls, covered in sponges and corals, are home to all manner of life.

Porto Santo Stefano

Despite its proximity to Rome, Porto Santo Stefano remains a relatively undiscovered coastal retreat, preserving its authentic atmosphere and relaxed pace of life. The picturesque coastal town offers a blend of natural beauty and old-world charm, with vibrant pastel buildings divided among the town’s four historical districts: Croce, Fortezza, Pilarella and Valle. Monte Argentario provides a dramatic backdrop for scenic hikes, while by the seaside, beaches Cala del Gesso and Cala Piccola are popular diving and snorkelling spots.

Porto Ercole

Porto Ercole is a little more off the beaten track, thanks to her wild nature. This is the town where troubled master Baroque artist Caravaggio lived out his final years – and whose tomb is, rather anticlimactically, located in a local cemetery, unlike his peers who are all resting within notable Italian mausoleums. The busy harbour, a lively spot, is dominated by the old Spanish fortress, the Fortezza Spagnola, and is the gateway to the old town, with cobbled lanes, flower box-heavy windowsills and plenty of tiny boutiques in which to while away the day. Rooftop restaurant Scirocco offers breathtaking views of the city, while around the cove is Isolotto Beach Club, set on the bay’s only sandy stretch.

Ponza

More than most places, days in Ponza are meant for the sea. An abundance of fishing coves, such as Cala Fonte, La Caletta, Cala Feola and Piscine Naturali, make for languid days and pretty photo opportunities thanks to colourful umbrellas staked into the rocks and old wooden fishing boats dancing on the waves. The charm of Isola di Ponza is just how undeveloped it is; instead of expecting slick polish, think charmingly old-school family-style establishments. Ristorante EEA is a must-visit, with a strong focus on seafood you’ll naturally find all over the island but with a fine-dining twist: think green seaweed tagliolini with scampi cream and lemon sitting alongside the typically Italian zucchini flowers stuffed with burrata on mint and courgette cream. La Marina, by Cala Feola, is a favourite among visitors, while the islet of Palmarola, just a short sail away, offers a single restaurant, O’Francese, on Cala del Porto, the only landing place on the island.

Ischia

The island of Ischia is quickly becoming a popular alternative to nearby Capri. With the Wes Anderson-esque Mezzatorre Hotel (see more on page 60) drawing the design-conscious and well-heeled, alongside a focus on wellbeing via the island’s natural volcanic springs, Ischia is a great place to wrap up your exploration of the Tyrrhenian. Stop by Giardini La Mortella, a lush botanic garden ideal for whiling away an afternoon, then, outside the city, drive around the hundreds of vineyards thanks to the island’s volcanic terroir, lending itself to crisp whites and robust reds. Towering overhead is Mount Epomeo with its well-defined hiking trails and, waiting at the peak, views all the way to Naples on a clear day. Finally, spend at least a morning or afternoon in one of the island’s 100-plus thermal baths. Many of these have been in use since Roman times, such as the Cavascura Baths which has pools cut into rock, while the Negombo Hydrothermal Park boasts 22 acres of gardens and both thermal and marine pools.

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