Upon arrival in Salina, travellers are immediately enveloped by the balmy air and warm Italian hospitality. Seven volcanic islands located off the coast of Sicily, the Aeolians are all inhabited and each have their own distinct charm. Salina stands out from the rest as the archipelago’s greenest, thanks to freshwater springs that support thriving hillsides. At only 27 square kilometres with a population of approximately 2,300, it’s not difficult to experience all the island has to offer in a few days – although you’ll no doubt wish to stay longer.

Santa Marina

Santa Marina is the main port town and a delightful place to linger and savour the timeless elegance that permeates the island. At the centre of its key square lies the Chiesa di Santa Marina, a 17th-century church overlooking the port, and around the corner sits Via Risorgimento, the street with all the action. This is a great spot to purchase homegrown Italian treasures, from Salina capers at the little Carpe Diem Mini Market to linen clothing at Salearancio Di Gattarello Maria boutique and handmade ceramics at La Bottega di Sophie Salina. The area has a relaxed, soulful feel. Walking down this strip, lined by small shops on both sides, time slows down. Vendors sit outside their stores, people-watching, while others are inside, explaining the quality of their wares to
potential buyers.

At the end of the road you’ll find Hotel I Cinque Balconi, named for its five balconies with ocean views. Owned by a sea merchant in the early 1900s, the quaint home is now run by his great-grandchildren. Tucked away inside is Casa Lo Schiavo, a small restaurant with an open kitchen that serves authentic Aeolian dishes such as straight-up pasta and seafood, along with a hefty cocktail list. It also doubles as a wine shop and delicatessen during the day.

Malfa

Malfa is about three miles from Santa Marina, perched on a hill with a winding path down to the beach. Locals come here for their essentials – the gas station, ATM, post office, supermarket – though there are plenty of reasons to stay longer, including great coffee and gelato shops and jewellery and boutiques (check out A Putia for fantastic pieces). The village is especially pretty, with colourful bougainvillaea and lemon trees punctuating the pavements. The slope splits in two directions: one way leads to the fisherman’s port, the other to Punta Scario Beach, which is covered in gigantic rocks. At the bottom of the steps leading to this shore, a man sits under an umbrella with a sign offering inflatable mattress rentals for lounging. There’s also a wooden shack selling refreshments. Malfa keeps things blissfully simple.

Up above, a short walk from the village’s main piazza, is the delightful boutique hotel Principe di Salina. Inside the whitewashed building, where cream-coloured curtains billow in the breeze, walls are decorated with pizza boards, floors bedecked with overlapping colourful rugs, and an aquamarine infinity pool stares out to sea and the volcanic presence of Stromboli.

While the whole island feels true to itself, staying here is extra special. Guests are greeted by jasmine bushes at this serene, 14-room hideaway, as well as the friendly owners, a wife-and-husband duo, who make everyone feel like family. Breakfast is served each morning at a communal wooden table under hanging peppers, with yet another sea view. Supper details are written on a chalkboard and served at the same table. Anita, the owner, often brings out extra helpings straight from the pot. Guests regularly become friends, sometimes ending the night at the pool bar, dancing and hanging out. The hotel also rents out e-scooters, which is a fun way to explore (once heads have cleared, of course).

A 10-minute walk from Principe di Salina is Fenech, a family-run organic winery with 200 years of winemaking history. Thanks to the island’s rich volcanic soil, they make excellent Malvasia delle Lipari whites. Malfa is also home to the island’s only Michelin-starred restaurant, Signum. Chef Martina Caruso uses local ingredients in unpredictable ways, such as adding Salina capers to ice cream, making for the most memorable meals.

Pollara

Pollara, on the island’s western side, is a small village carved into rock, facing the sea. It looks like something from a film, and in fact, Pollara Beach was the location for 1994’s
Il Postino (The Postman): this hidden coastal corner is accessed by a scenic 150-step zigzag path. Salina is also known for its capers, one of the island’s largest exports, and Pollara is a great place to try the salty fruit. Sapori Eoliani have been perfecting their caper-growing methods for generations. A visit to their farm for a tasting is a fun way to learn about this healthy local speciality.

The ultimate place for a romantic evening is Punto Panoramico Semaforo di Pollara lighthouse. There’s a small food-and-drink truck for visitors who want to have a picnic, and the orange and pink sunset over the water is supremely stunning. After dark, the nearby castle is another excellent hidden gem for a stargazing experience.

Rinella, Monte Fossa delle Felci, and Lingua

On Salina’s south side, Spiaggia di Rinella is a black-sand beach with superb snorkelling and tasty granitas, a delicacy that’s similar to flavoured shaved ice (Pa.Pe.Ro’ serves an unforgettable ricotta flavour).

Monte Fossa delle Felci, the island’s tallest mountain at 962 metres, stands proudly at its centre: adventure-seekers should not miss the chance to hike it at sunrise for some utterly mesmerising scenes. There are three main trails with different difficulty levels, starting from Valdichiesa, Malfa and Santa Marina.

Head southeast for Lingua, a popular place for locals, who like to sunbathe on the esplanade or take a recharging dip in the gin-clear sea. The waterfront has restaurants and a craft market, ideal for a midday sunbreak. Da Alfredo, another family-run joint, is known for its generous portions of pane cunzato, a traditional Sicilian open-faced sandwich. The paper menu doubles as a placemat and lists several topping choices – whatever you go for, an Aperol Spritz pairs very well with this regional staple.