Before there was Cap Juluca hotel, there was Pimms. As Anguilla’s first proper fine-dining spot, it’s been the place for Superyacht guests to return to, year after year. Now, more than four decades since it opened on a breezy terrace just metres from the water, the restaurant’s laid-back yet refined charm is as strong as ever.
Head Chef Justin Hughes wouldn’t have it any other way. Growing up on Anguilla, his deep respect for local traditions and ingredients is evident in everything that comes out of his kitchen. Pimms’ chef team work closely with local fishermen and nearby islands who bring in lobster, snapper, reef fish, crayfish and conch – among many other fish – caught hours before service. As Hughes describes, “the community partnerships are what keep the menu true to the local heritage”.
The restaurant’s dishes often highlight the island’s produce through these very same fish, as well as fragrant herbs and seasonal Caribbean vegetables (some grown on the island). Take the Anguillian lobster poached in lemongrass butter with garlicky roasted leeks, for example, or the snapper crudo served with burnt orange, dashi and kumquats: both signature plates capture ocean-led provenance, French finesse and a deep sense of place. For something more outlandish, try the conch carpaccio, served with conch ceviche, conch fritters and a lime coconut sorbet. With conch shells littering Anguilla’s beaches as an unofficial symbol of the Caribbean, this is as zero-mile as it gets. As for Hughes’ personal favourite dish, “It’s got to be the grilled Anguillian crayfish for its sweetness and perfect char”.
Of course, it’s as much about the experience as the culinary prowess here. “Dropping anchor in the calm waters of Cap Juluca and tendering straight to Pimms feels like arriving at a private island dinner party,” Hughes continues. Before sitting down to dine, a Mâitre D’ welcomes you with a sea salt, coconut and lime hand scrub. Instead of regular bread on the table, tear a piece of brioche bun topped with island spices and sea salt. All of this is set to the sound of the waves lapping on the rocks metres below, and the colours changing dramatically as the sun sets over the other side of the bay.
As Anguilla evolves as an upscale travel destination with more hotels opening up, Hughes remains a proud part of its dining narrative. He’s a quiet but powerful force who brings the island’s food culture to centre stage and inspires younger chefs. His career grew within some of Anguilla’s most notable resorts, including a few different roles at Cap Juluca itself. Off the island, Hughes made a name for himself through his standout performances at the Taste of the Caribbean competition in Miami, where he represented Anguilla as part of the national culinary team. There, his artistry and precision earned him multiple medals, including a Gold Medal for Chef of the Year – one of the highest individual honours awarded during the 2012 competition.
His latest project? Alongside Chef Primrose Ritchie, he’s been involved in the opening of The Cap Shack, a dreamy beach hut bar right down on Maundays Bay, where you can eat with your soles on the sand. Rock up in your swimmers and sample Anguilla’s national dish, pigeon peas and rice, or have a light lunch of freshly prepared bites such as the Caribbean crab cake or the tuna poke bowl. Under the dappled light of a blue-and-white parasol, lean back and watch as extra-fresh beach eats are prepared in Cap Shack’s cutesy vintage food truck. Unlike at Pimms, this is the kind of place you can unwind on loungers and sweet egg-style dining chairs as you munch; where the sound of calypso and reggae drifts from the bar as, deliciously slowly, the afternoon draws on.
