Travel I
Sailing Stockholm
WORDS: CHLOÉ BRAITHWAITE | IMAGES: GEORGE COOPER, LUKE DOREY & HANNAH GOLDSMITH
An ethereal group of 30,000 islands, the Stockholm archipelago – called the skärgården by locals – is a little piece of bliss in the Baltic Sea. These lands are perfect for slow travel: long days spent in the outdoors, living by the gentle rhythms of the sea and the sun. Itineraries here are often left by the wayside, given the number of possible stops; anchorages abound, as do pretty views and opportunities to get out and explore, so take this as a rough guide for you to play with.
We begin in Stockholm, of course, a destination that is worth exploring on its own. Take a few days to get to know the Swedish capital before setting out for the wild, windswept isles.
UTÖ
Utö sits on the southern edge of the archipelago. The waters around it are sometimes so placid they look like that of a lake, and the stillness on the island is not that far removed. It’s not uncommon to run into wild moose, and the lack of cars helps promote a more laid-back pace of life for the small permanent population. Simple red-painted homes line many of the coves; jetties reach out into the Baltic Sea and make for stunning shots as you cruise past them. An old windmill, built in 1791, is one of the main landmarks: it rises over the town on a tiny hill, and during spring becomes surrounded by blooms of wild orchids. Elsewhere lie the oldest iron mines in the country. The homes of the miners are still there, well-preserved and part of the museum complex that traces their long history. Travelling across largely flat Utö is best done by bike: cycle through the conifer forests to reach the secluded beaches and rocky bays, where it’s possible to go for hours without catching sight of another human being. Even Greta Garbo was reportedly a fan.
DALARÖ
Head north past Ornö for Dalarö. Long a destination for Stockholm’s high society, today it’s a more low-key spot, highly populated over the summer months when flocks of Swedes escape the city to dwell in its peaceful environs. It’s also known to be well-conserved, with old villas from the 18th and 19th centuries. One in particular was owned by Swedish writer and painter Johan Strindberg (his former home is still there, albeit privately owned, now called Strindberg Cottage). Not far from the little town centre is Schweizerbadet, a shallow stretch of beach with a long, pretty jetty. The water is calm, and, given its lack of depth, often quite warm. Though shallow, the waters here hold spectacular shipwrecks dating back to the 15th century, which are now part of Dalarö Dive Park, Sweden’s first maritime cultural reserve.
SANDHAMN
From Dalarö, head to Sandhamn on the north-eastern edge of the archipelago. It’s a haven for the seaborne, yacht owners in particular: the Royal Swedish Yacht Club has a base here. Summer brings with it vibrant parties and full café terraces, but that doesn’t mean it’s not worth visiting in winter: off-season, there’s barely a soul around, given the fact it’s home to just more than 100 permanent residents. Grassy alleys and those now-signature red wooden homes criss-cross the streets, and the isle is the setting for two major pieces of Nordic Noir: Millennium’s Mikael Blomkvist took refuge here, and, of course, The Sandhamn Murders.
FINNHAMN
Dense, deciduous forests and rocky outcrops smoothed by winds and winter waves make up the majority of Finnhamn, to the northwest of Sandhamn. The lands here are part of a nature reserve, simply but efficiently well-appointed for visitors, particularly in the summer: the pub and rooftop bar, classic country store and beachside kiosk are all you really need. Traversing the island is a well-maintained path, perfect for hiking from cove to cove to heather-covered meadow. Unique to Finnhamn are the oak trees that line the walkways, providing a home for an abundance of wildlife: you may spot deers, badgers and foxes, as well as plenty of bird species.
GRINDA
From Finnhamn, chart a course for Grinda to the south west. Another nature reserve, it’s charming and pristine, despite its popularity in summer. A historic Art Nouveau inn, Wärdshuset, is open from April to November and has become something of a legend for the sailors who frequent the archipelago. The terrace is a dreamy spot for a drink while watching the sunset over the shimmering waters of Saxarfjärden bay, while Grinda Bageri, its only bakery, rustles up fresh bread and sweet buns every morning and serves breakfast every day during summer.
MÖJA
To the east of Grinda is Möja, an island inhabited since the Viking age. Today, it’s covered in small villages and harbours, where fishing and farming are still key industries. Local fishermen run Wikströms Fisk, a tavern in the town of Ramsmora, while in Berg, the main village, Les Poissonniers de Møja displays the catch of the day on a bed of crushed ice, served alongside a chilled glass of crisp rosé. Between meals, walk off the calories in the woods of Björndalen nature reserve, a pretty marshland, where trails run between Hamn, Ramsmora and Löka.
BULLERÖN
Head due south and you’ll hit nature and bird reserve Bullerön, once privately owned by Swedish artist Bruno Liljefors. Now returned to the Swedish state, much effort has been put into recreating the old agricultural landscape and preserving the homes of the farmers who once lived on the island. Meadows, pastures and lush forest make up the majority of the land, home to protected birdlife. Unlike the other stops on our itinerary, there isn’t much on Bullerön; you won’t find a bar or café, but you will find hiking routes across flowering meadows and cliff beaches ideal for sunbathing, so be sure to pack a picnic.
