Environment I

A Letter from Norway

WORDS: CHLOÉ BRAITHWAITE | IMAGES: JOSE WALKER

Pale, sunny yellow buildings dance on the surface of the dark, calm water; a gap, then its neighbour, white, moves in a chaotic sort of synchrony with it. The next, a rosy pink, is a little harder to make out, but adds to the kaleidoscope of colour that cheers up the otherwise grey autumn sky in Ålesund, a pretty port town on the west coast of Norway.

It marks the entrance to Geirangerfjord, a 15-kilometre-long fjord bordered by sheer, sharp cliffs and paradisiacal waterfalls – if ever there was an entrance to heaven, it would look, unquestionably, like this. It is one of Norway’s many coastal environmental sites, inscribed in 2005 on UNESCO’s World Heritage list as among the longest and deepest, connecting Ålesund’s humanity with mountains, rivers and wild.

Fjords – long, narrow sea inlets carved into stone by sharp, mountain-like glaciers over eons – are a defining feature of the Norwegian landscape, shaping its geography, history and culture. Geirangerfjord is counted as one of the most beautiful among the more than 1,000 tracing the coastline – indeed, a staggering 91 per cent of that coast consists of fjords and bays. They serve as important transportation routes, a source of food and inspiration, and the focus of much folklore.

Today this memorable landscape is also playing host to growing numbers of luxury travellers, according to companies such as Pelorus Yachting. The bespoke expedition leaders saw requests for Norway rise by almost half between 2022 to 2023, and the trend looks likely to continue. Ricardo Araujo, founder of concierge company Ariodante, agrees, having designed an experience in and around the Norwegian fjords as well. “People are drawn to the fjords for their raw beauty and that feeling of ‘natural might’ you get there, but they often discard the immense cultural and human heritage the entire region has.” It’s an area that should be explored even more, he believes. “I think it deserves way more interest and attention from the whole travel industry. There’s a richness and countless treasures (and human treasures) that are worth exploring, not just as ‘adventure travel.’”

Charter brokers, too, are reporting more interest than ever in the fjords, says Bobby Bigio of Camper & Nicholsons. “We’re seeing an increase in charters considered ‘off the beaten track,’ and Norway is one of the most popular spots,” he says. “They’re for outdoorsy people who want to go hiking, kayaking and for exploration. The fjords are stunning. A lot of people who have chartered a lot in the past are looking to spice things up a bit – so many go
to Norway.”

Already a major destination for nature-based tourism, Norway’s waterways are ideally primed to receive such a flourishing influx of curious guests, with sustainable tourism part of its peoples’ DNA. “Growing up among sites such as Geirangerfjord instills a deep respect for nature,” says Pauline Solheim, the Sustainability Coordinator at Destination Lofoten, the official entity responsible for promoting the region and where another of Norway’s most beautiful fjords, Trollfjorden, is located. Norwegians’ special relationship with the environment is one that is present almost at birth, reflected in the concept of friluftsliv, or outdoor living: the term connotes a deep respect for nature. Many children’s time at kindergarten is spent almost entirely outside, regardless of the weather, and a high number of Norway’s go-to hotspots are in the countryside.

The philosophy – to leave no trace, to support local communities, to ensure a place is left in a better condition than we first found it – runs smoothly into its conservation-first strategies for protecting the fjords. Along with its fellow Scandinavian neighbours, Norway has long been progressive when it comes to sustainability. Back in 2013, the government became one of the world’s first to implement a national Sustainable Destination certification, a process that takes two to three years to complete. Geirangerfjord and the Lofoten Islands both received the label, with the latter, for example, publishing a code of conduct on what it means to be a responsible visitor in their region. Another highly relevant measure, confirmed in just September this year and to be enacted by 2032, will ban all greenhouse gas-emitting ships from Norway’s fjords.

However, sailors who arrive in yachts – and all tourists who arrive by more environmentally-friendly means – are encouraged to stay for longer around the fjords. In Ålesund, they’ve been working on promoting the region as a destination for every season to create all-year work places. “Almost all hotels now remain open year-round and keep all-year staff who settle in even quite remote places,” says Helen Siverstøl, who works with Destination Ålesund. As just one by-product of this, a local guide company now also offers activities year-round.

“I truly believe in the good of people and humanity,” muses Solheim, when considering the future of her ancient fjǫrðr (from the Old Norse “to travel across” and the origin of the English words “ferry” and “fare”) as a key sailing destination. “I feel that the majority want to make good choices to benefit the local community.” Let’s hope, for these epic waterways’ sake, that’s true.