Travel I
Checking In: Les Regalia, Corsica
WORDS: CHLOÉ BRAITHWAITE | IMAGES: LOUISE LON
Corsica holds a special kind of allure: a stunning coastline, immaculate beaches, turquoise waters and a blend of natural beauty and in-depth history combine to create an idyllic playground. But beyond her breathtaking landscapes – between a dash of glamour and a splash of adventure – Corsica offers a refined Mediterranean lifestyle with charming coastal towns and world-class dining to explore. In the midst of all this is Les Regalia, where the island’s ancient traditions intertwine with a modern, minimalist feel. Above all a family affair, Les Regalia is the newest addition to the local Carli’s portfolio of boutique hotels – after four generations of hoteliers, it is an ode to the new generation taking up the torch of the old. Thoughtfully designed with attention paid to the smallest of details, the theme of the estate is ‘home’, and that intimate impression begins with the name: Les Regalia was the name of the old family abode. Now, it is a royally warm invitation.
Time slows down here, thanks to views over Pinarello Bay glimpsed over the summer soundtrack of cicadas. While the hotel is very much a built environment, it was designed to blend in with the natural, with eco-conscious, sustainable practices in mind. Materials were locally sourced where possible, including wood, stone and even coral, to minimise their environmental impact.
Les Regalia has 21 rooms – designated Garden and Sea-View – and three suites, each named after the family’s matriarchs. Every suite is a lush, gentle haven with views overlooking the bay. But no matter which option you go for, they all bring the outside in, with custom-designed recycled wood herringbone floors and wooden terraces built from the bottoms of old wagons. Muted tones instil tranquillity, but there are still lots of pops of colour; olive greens and burnt ochre bring to mind the hues of Corsica’s landscapes and sun-kissed earth. A great emphasis has been placed on creating high-tech sanctuaries, and in addition to the usual entertainment, there are next-level touches such as the large motorised windows that automatically deactivate the air-conditioning when opened.
Outside under the hot Corsican sun, curved sun loungers dip into a cool infinity pool, surrounded by four-poster day beds. Les Regalia is also a spa, and a full menu of treatments are on offer with two exclusive brands of product: Vinésime, created from vineyard extracts of the famous vintages of Burgundy; and Amuredda, a local estate in the Fiumorbo region in Haute Corsica that cultivates rare aromatics distilled into essential oils. Among the treatments on offer is a particularly revitalising hammam session, ideal after a long time spent at sea.
Of course, relaxation often comes hand-in-hand with indulgence, and a visit to the hotel’s restaurant allows just that, bringing the other side of Corsica to life: her terroir. The French island’s rolling hills, rich in aromatic herbs, meet the coastline kissed by the Mediterranean Sea, and this contrast of landscapes is what has come to define the Corsican palate. Rustic yet refined, at once robust and elegant, Corsica’s culinary legacy is clearly represented at The Alba, Les Regalia’s in-house restaurant headed by chef Jeremy Passat. Passat weaves in global influences to his menus while staying true to local ingredients. What this looks like, in reality, is delicate dishes almost too pretty to eat: fresh, briny local oysters dressed in kiwi and a sharp vinaigrette-infused granita; a Corsican lemon cheesecake garnished with Japanese yuzu, or an antipodean-inspired pavlova piled high with bright strawberries sprinkled with Nepalese Timut pepper.
But the highlight of The Alba is her tasting menu. Written on your plate and accompanied by a booklet, Chef Passat rewrites his culinary tale each day, inspired by his finds at the daily market. But the central theme remains the same: an epicurean journey to the heart of Corsica, through her mountains, maquis and valleys, and from her rivers to the sea, every meal is a story that unfolds with each bite.
However, one doesn’t sail to Corsica with an intention to remain within a hotel’s grounds. A short walk away from Les Regalia are southern Corsica’s paradisiacal beaches. The waters of Pinarello Bay are shallow, clear and an impossibly pale blue-green. Calm and lined with fine white sand, they’re perfect for water sports or for simply whiling away the days.
Corsica is an island of contrasts, and while the sea enchants with her siren song, the mountains are bewitching all on their own. You’ll find equestrian centres, mountain biking, canyoning and even tree climbing, but the most underrated activity is arguably the most rewarding: a hike through mountain trails to the Aiguilles de Bavella, crossing the famous Ospedale forest and natural pools of Cavu, is an almost
spiritual experience.
All this and more can be organised by Les Regalia’s in-house concierge service, providing a seamless experience from berth to bed and back again.
