Travel I
The High Low: Elba
WORDS: CHLOÉ BRAITHWAITE | IMAGES: LA BAIA + BLEEP
No matter where you go in Italy, good food is always on the menu. On volcanic Ischia and rocky Elba, you can expect an abundance of fresh seafood, local produce and lengthy wine lists full of remarkable, yet sadly overlooked, Italian varietals (or ‘those made using a single variety of grape’, for non-oenophiles). This is where the verdant vineyards of Tuscany meet the Mediterranean Sea, resulting in a timeless, pretty blend of coastal charm, rugged, rural sensibility and a charismatic hospitality that is so quintessentially Italian. Here, we bring you one of the country’s most innovative cocktail bars alongside one of its finest takes on traditional Italian cuisine – that really must both be sampled.
La Baia Restaurant and Bar: For relaxed cool
Pastel-hued Mezzatore on Ischia – an understated alternative to glitzy Capri – has been enjoying a languid summer. By the pool and overlooking the sea is La Baia, a timeless restaurant and bar serving up fresh seafood and local cuisine created by chef Giuseppe d’Adundo, an Ischian native himself.
This is, without a doubt, one of the prettiest spots on the entire island. Giant palm fronds shade the al-fresco space, which is open to the cool breeze that flows off the Tyrrhenian Sea; tables are topped with fare scooped from the local shore. The chef’s signature, a delicately sweet white fish crudo accentuated by a tangy citrus marmalade, demonstrates his ability to construct unfussy yet fine dishes. According to the hotel, however, were you to ask, his favourite option on the menu is the scialatielli ai quattro pomodori: ‘ruffled pasta with four tomatoes’. The dish is reminiscent of Tuscany’s cucina povera tradition, a kind of elevated peasant food – often declared the very best kind of food – and incorporates a typical pasta from Campania and the Amalfi region: tagliatelle-esque but shorter and slightly wider with a tangy-sweet tomato sauce. Alternatively, the catch of the day is always available to be served cooked to your liking, and with an incredibly well-curated selection of purely local Italian wines, a day at La Baia is an excellent way of keeping the rest of the world, well, at bay. For more on the history and transformation of Mezzatore hotel, see page 60.
mezzatore.com
Bleep Bar: Ocean & Rocks
As the sun sets over Elba, a charming little outcrop of an island off Italy’s Tuscan coast, there’s a pulsing in the air. Late-summer crowds gather along the shores of its Fenicia and Fenicetta beaches to watch the golden rays imbue the Mediterranean skies with a rainbow of colours. Overlooking the spectacle is Bleep, a unique cocktail bar by local Alberto Adriani. He was inspired to recreate an Ibizan chiringuito, or small beach bar, after having spent time working on the Spanish island during his 13 years of travelling. The result is a design-forward resounding success.
Adriani’s philosophy is a clear one: adapt to nature. “We are really proud of the nature [on Elba] and we kept the rest simple,” he explains. “We matched the colours of the rocks with our chairs; everything is [made from] wood. We have a lot of cool lights, and we designed and crafted our high tables from an extra special wood. [Sitting on them now], you can watch the sea while you drink.”
Small cabins in white and turquoise bring an almost Wes Anderson-esque vibe to the bar – a place that refuses to take itself too seriously. “We’re small, loud and colourful,” says Adriani. “We try to be laid-back, but with style. Our strength is in our location – directly in front of the sea.”
Bleep’s cocktail menu is all about telling a story; key flavours done well, not overly complicated. “Our must-tries are the Bleep Mule: Stolichnaya vodka infused with rhubarb, lime and ginger beer; Totem: a mix of overproof rum with a home-made syrup made from chestnut honey and blueberries; and DoubleL: lychee, lemongrass, gin and soda – it’s super refreshing,” says Adriani. “Plus, this year, we also added sangrias: a classic one, a tropical and an Italian one, which are working really well.”
But what makes Bleep unique on Elba – perhaps on the whole Tuscan coastline even – is the weaving of Adriani’s other passion into the lifeblood of the bar: the music. “Bleep is a signal, an electronic input – a glitch in the reality of the place,” Adriani continues. “We’re music producers too. Each year, we do a different ‘menu EP,’ and each year, we come out with a gatefold vinyl edition including different graphics and cocktails. We want you to choose a cocktail from our menu EP just as if you were choosing a track from your favourite vinyl at home.”
Electronica beats through the sunset, everything from low BPM nostalgia to deep, moody Balearic house. Past sunset, the air is electric. On Sundays, the mood changes up as DJs from across the world take over the bar. “We play different styles of music depending on the vibe at the time and how full the place is,” Adriani says. “The point is to catch up with the sunset, giving you a sensation of ecstasy and pleasure while drinking our cocktails and watching the sun go down.”
Finally, complement a night out at Bleep with a light seafood supper at Capo Nord – Adriani’s restaurant just at the other end of the beach.
bleepcocktails.com
