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Travel I

A French-Créole sweet spot - Colibri, Antigua

WORDS: LOUISE LONG | IMAGES: EMMA MATHIESON AND CATHERINE FERRAZ

Even returning visitors can’t help but be taken aback by the scene that greets them at Colibri: a lush garden shaded by 60 year-old Flamboyant trees, a ‘cabana’ bar, and an elegant wooden-clad restaurant, housed in one of the oldest wooden cottages in the village. Despite its location in the heart of Antigua’s historic English Harbour, Colibri is as secluded as it is special – treasured not only for its beautiful setting, but for its refined menu, personal charm, and of course, the peerless cocktail list.

When the restaurant opened in Antigua in 2018 — by French restaurateur Didier Deleau and his artist wife, Leah – Colibri was an instant hit; on an island already revered for its gastronomy. Shaped by Didier’s two decades living on the island, the vision was simple: a restaurant that marries French with Créole culinary heritages. It is a vision that continues to be refined – from his developing team of chefs and front of house staff, to his deepening relationships with local suppliers, and ongoing projects for the restaurant’s interiors and garden (whose design is largely led by Leah, an artist, originally from Martha’s Vineyard).

This year, Colibri welcomes the return of head chef Richard Meyniel for his third season, bringing a pedigree of Michelin-starred kitchens alongside myriad international experience, including at his own French bistrot in Morocco, La Cantine de Charlotte. It is this melting point of culinary cultures that enriches Meyniel’s French-Créole menu: “his sauces are spectacular!”, Deleau notes. Classic dishes include Étouffée de Fruits de Mer – a seafood stew with Cajun spicing, or homemade gnocchi with a fricassee of oyster mushrooms, grown locally by a friend of Deleau. Seasonal ingredients take centre stage, as does local produce, including organic chicken and lamb from the island’s Hall Valley Farm, tomatoes and micro greens from nearby smallholders (newcomers since the pandemic), and locally caught red snapper, wahoo and spiny Barbudan lobster – destined for chef Meyniel’s champion Bisque de Langouste. Fois gras, charcuterie and cheese are brought over from Guadeloupe: “being French, these are the things we miss dearly!”, says Deleau. Colibri is not alone in hunting for the best ingredients, but Deleau is not deterred. “Luckily I’ve been here 20 years, so they’re not my suppliers anymore, they’re my friends”, he remarks jovially. “I’m able to get exactly what I want!”

Wine pairings (from their French-focused selection) are offered not only with tasting notes, but with knowledge that extends to the families of individual vineyards. Menu adaptations are served with a smile, including several vegetarian or vegan options – “we always try to do our best to help everyone”, Deleau says. Then there is dessert, true to form in its French-Créole sweet spot: French beignets with chilli-chocolate dipping sauce, roasted pineapple tarte tatin, or fresh fruit pavlova served with rum and raisin ice cream, from a local business originally from Brittany.

Outside at the Cabana cocktail bar, meanwhile, the restaurant’s gourmet menu is offset by a creative selection of informal sharing boards, featuring homemade terrines, black pudding served with mango chutney, and salt fish accra with spicy tomato sauce. Deleau’s personal passion for cocktails is palpable – starting with his signature ​​Ti’ Colibri, a delicate blend of grapefruit-infused vodka, elderflower, grapefruit juice and rosemary syrup. Classic long drinks sit alongside experimental inventions, with daiquiris, margaritas and sours making the most of gluts of local mangos, watermelons, soursops or tamarinds, the latter grown in Deleau’s backyard. Not to mention their house-infused rhum arrangés, with flavours including banana and vanilla, orange peel and cinnamon, or sorrel and ginger. The passionfruit margarita is spectacular”, Deleau says, “because it’s not as sweet as others”.

Flair, inventiveness and authenticity is at the heart of Colibri, run by a pair who care deeply about their island, its culinary community and each of their customers. Whether it’s the addition of a bottle of hot sauce for a local’s extra spicy palette, offering aquafaba vegan alternatives for sour cocktails, or welcoming repeat guests with coupes of champagne, no detail is overlooked. Between the smoked fish rillettes, the Hemingway daiquiris and Leah’s famed playlists… you’d be forgiven for arriving at 5pm and staying all evening.

Travel I

A French-Créole sweet spot - Colibri, Antigua

WORDS: LOUISE LONG | IMAGES: EMMA MATHIESON AND CATHERINE FERRAZ

Even returning visitors can’t help but be taken aback by the scene that greets them at Colibri: a lush garden shaded by 60 year-old Flamboyant trees, a ‘cabana’ bar, and an elegant wooden-clad restaurant, housed in one of the oldest wooden cottages in the village. Despite its location in the heart of Antigua’s historic English Harbour, Colibri is as secluded as it is special – treasured not only for its beautiful setting, but for its refined menu, personal charm, and of course, the peerless cocktail list.

When the restaurant opened in Antigua in 2018 — by French restaurateur Didier Deleau and his artist wife, Leah – Colibri was an instant hit; on an island already revered for its gastronomy. Shaped by Didier’s two decades living on the island, the vision was simple: a restaurant that marries French with Créole culinary heritages. It is a vision that continues to be refined – from his developing team of chefs and front of house staff, to his deepening relationships with local suppliers, and ongoing projects for the restaurant’s interiors and garden (whose design is largely led by Leah, an artist, originally from Martha’s Vineyard).

This year, Colibri welcomes the return of head chef Richard Meyniel for his third season, bringing a pedigree of Michelin-starred kitchens alongside myriad international experience, including at his own French bistrot in Morocco, La Cantine de Charlotte. It is this melting point of culinary cultures that enriches Meyniel’s French-Créole menu: “his sauces are spectacular!”, Deleau notes. Classic dishes include Étouffée de Fruits de Mer – a seafood stew with Cajun spicing, or homemade gnocchi with a fricassee of oyster mushrooms, grown locally by a friend of Deleau. Seasonal ingredients take centre stage, as does local produce, including organic chicken and lamb from the island’s Hall Valley Farm, tomatoes and micro greens from nearby smallholders (newcomers since the pandemic), and locally caught red snapper, wahoo and spiny Barbudan lobster – destined for chef Meyniel’s champion Bisque de Langouste. Fois gras, charcuterie and cheese are brought over from Guadeloupe: “being French, these are the things we miss dearly!”, says Deleau. Colibri is not alone in hunting for the best ingredients, but Deleau is not deterred. “Luckily I’ve been here 20 years, so they’re not my suppliers anymore, they’re my friends”, he remarks jovially. “I’m able to get exactly what I want!”

Wine pairings (from their French-focused selection) are offered not only with tasting notes, but with knowledge that extends to the families of individual vineyards. Menu adaptations are served with a smile, including several vegetarian or vegan options – “we always try to do our best to help everyone”, Deleau says. Then there is dessert, true to form in its French-Créole sweet spot: French beignets with chilli-chocolate dipping sauce, roasted pineapple tarte tatin, or fresh fruit pavlova served with rum and raisin ice cream, from a local business originally from Brittany.

Outside at the Cabana cocktail bar, meanwhile, the restaurant’s gourmet menu is offset by a creative selection of informal sharing boards, featuring homemade terrines, black pudding served with mango chutney, and salt fish accra with spicy tomato sauce. Deleau’s personal passion for cocktails is palpable – starting with his signature ​​Ti’ Colibri, a delicate blend of grapefruit-infused vodka, elderflower, grapefruit juice and rosemary syrup. Classic long drinks sit alongside experimental inventions, with daiquiris, margaritas and sours making the most of gluts of local mangos, watermelons, soursops or tamarinds, the latter grown in Deleau’s backyard. Not to mention their house-infused rhum arrangés, with flavours including banana and vanilla, orange peel and cinnamon, or sorrel and ginger. The passionfruit margarita is spectacular”, Deleau says, “because it’s not as sweet as others”.

Flair, inventiveness and authenticity is at the heart of Colibri, run by a pair who care deeply about their island, its culinary community and each of their customers. Whether it’s the addition of a bottle of hot sauce for a local’s extra spicy palette, offering aquafaba vegan alternatives for sour cocktails, or welcoming repeat guests with coupes of champagne, no detail is overlooked. Between the smoked fish rillettes, the Hemingway daiquiris and Leah’s famed playlists… you’d be forgiven for arriving at 5pm and staying all evening.

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